There are meals for which one is happy to put down the phone and pull the chair closer to the table. In autumn, these mainly include those that promise a proper sauce, a bit of butter, and something to wipe the plate with. The October menu HERE TASTES understands this mood. Alongside game and a return to the old cookbook, it also offers contrasts of flavors and textures. “Sexy food must have something crunchy and sour,” says chef David Kalina. 

Chef's Tip: Royal Oyster Mushroom Deserves the Leading Role

If mushrooms on the menu usually interest you only after the meat, it’s worth changing the order here. Grilled royal oyster mushroom with an egg prepared at 63 °C, sauce made from roasted yeast, and fried peas is one of the most intriguing combinations on the October offer. Even its description promises a plate that won’t play just one note.

The oyster mushroom gets space to shine on its own. Grilling, the egg, and the roasted yeast sauce create a composition that invites slow tasting: first the mushroom with the sauce, then a bite with the egg, and finally all the elements together. The fried peas add additional texture and bring us back to David's remark about what makes food attractive.

The greatest attention may be drawn by the roasted yeast itself. This ingredient appears this time in the sauce. It’s a detail that raises questions even before ordering — and a good reason to give this appetizer a chance. Mushroom, egg, yeast, peas. Four familiar ingredients in a combination that is rarely assembled at home.

The menu suggests Neuburské from the Verýsek Winery from Velkopavlovice to accompany the oyster mushroom, while the restaurant MINCOVNA offers the tastefully interesting wine Cuvée “Viktoria” 2024 from the Krásná hora winery in Slovácko. This starter deserves its own glass and a few minutes of attention, says Jan Šimánek, sommelier of the restaurant concept HERE TASTES.

Carpaccio with a New Company. Onion Soup with Character.

Beef carpaccio is this time accompanied by Caesar dressing, dried egg yolk, and Gran Biraghi cheese. Along with toasted bread. This well-known appetizer thus gets a composition that invites assembling individual bites according to taste. The recommended wine is Rulandské modré from the Vican Winery from Mikulov.

For those in the mood for a spoon rather than a fork, the onion soup is a great start. Its company is worth noting: a croquette made from Olomouc cheese and ham from the bone. The cheese in the croquette is exactly the detail that will make you pause while reading the menu. And perhaps it will lead you to reconsider your original order.

Chef's Tip: Veal Kreplineta Esterházy

Some dish names have the charm of old hotel restaurants, white tablecloths, and leisurely lunches. Veal kreplineta with Esterházy sauce belongs to them. In the October menu HERE TASTES, it is accompanied by buttered vegetables and ham dumplings — and this dish is the second chef's tip.

The recipe includes a reference to Karel Šroubka and his book How to Cook at Šroubka from 1911. More than a century of culinary inspiration thus returns to the contemporary menu. And it returns with a combination that already has clear appeal on paper: veal, sauce, buttered vegetables, and dumplings.

The side dish deserves a small detour. The ham dumplings are not just an item on the list. In this composition, they are as enticing as the meat itself and remind us of how much space older cuisine could dedicate to the entire plate. Therefore, it’s worth tasting the kreplineta with everything that belongs to it.

Wild Boar Loin, Not a Disappointment Named Cordon Bleu?

Wild boar loin brings autumn to the plate in full composition: cranberry sauce, baby mushrooms with pancetta, and pumpkin puree with orange. This time, pumpkin stands alongside game, citrus adds an interesting twist, and cranberries continue to play with fruity tones. The recommended wine is HERE TASTES “Bordeaux” from Château La Mothe du Barry.

Turkey cordon bleu with Emmental cheese and ham from the bone again reminds us how appealing familiar combinations can be. Especially when accompanied by mashed potatoes and a strong buttery gravy. Pickled radish brings a sour counterpoint and another reason to return for a new bite. The menu for this dish offers HERE TASTES “Veltlín” from Christoph Bauer from Weinviertel.

What Belongs in the Glass

Pairing accompanies the October offer from appetizers to main courses. When choosing wine, it makes sense to read the entire description of the dish: sauce, butter, pickled vegetables, or fruit side can significantly change the character of the bite, says Jan Šimánek:

“When pairing, we look at the entire plate, not just the main ingredient. The sauce and side can be just as decisive in wine selection as the meat.”

Finally, a Dessert. And One More Crunch.

Peanut cake with white chocolate cream, cherry sauce, and peanuts in caramel maintains the theme of the entire menu until the last spoonful. The delicate cream, fruit, and crunchy element meet in the sweet finale.

The October menu HERE TASTES offers plenty of reasons to come and taste. What are you waiting for?

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